Crossing the Nullarbor

Information

Before setting out we asked a few people, read what we could find and checked out information on the internet.

We had heard that the area number of spots that could be used for camping, but what we discovered was that this was really more suitable for people with caravans and motor home (or RVs as we eventually worked was the other name for them - recreational vehicle). A lot of the spots are a bit bare and have no facilities at all. Hard to know where, how and when people in the smaller vans that stop there do about toiletry. If you call in to some of the spots there is a lot of toilet paper about which is not very nice. Some spots do have a sign indicating 24 hour stopover allowed and they usually seem to have toilet installed.

It is said that at some of the overnight spots you can drive for quite a distance along tracks leading further inland, we did not investigate these but at some at least it looked fairly out in the open for a hundreds of metres.

So while camping was kept as an option we also had worked out what accommodation was available and researched what people thought about it. Trip Advisor was the best source of this information.

We tried to make each day not too far to drive and kept it to under 600 k per day.

The Journey

The Nullarbor crossing was not quite what I had imagined. To start with it was 200 k into the crossing from Ceduna before we left behind the cleared paddocks of wheat. Eventually more natural surrounds began to appear, but not until Yalata that the bush dominated. By the time the Head of Bight was reached trees had become scarce and vast wide plains of saltbush and low scrub surrounded us. This continued for the next 300 k but some small Mallee and wattles persisted.

Madura Pass

Nullarbor near Balladonia

Nullarbor near Balladonia

One of the delights of the journey was seeing so many whales at the Head of Bight lookouts; we could see something like 15-20 whales with calves.

We left Ceduna soon after 8:00 am and it felt strange, because the previous day it was quite light at about 7am but because we had gone so far west it was much duller at that time of day. Then when we got to the end of the day we were in Western Australia and it was still bright and sunny at 5:30 pm in South Australian time, which made it half way through the afternoon in Western Australian time. All very much a strange feeling.

In contrast to Ceduna, seven in the morning was quite light; all resulting from the time zones. So it was much easier to be up early and we were on the road by 7:30. A long coastal plain was backed by a flat topped range for a long distance until the road climbed up on to it at Madura. Up here there was a variety of trees and shrubs and it was pleasant to drive through. Eventually the scene became more open especially on getting close to Cocklebiddy, and then there was the 145 k long straight that ended a bit before Balladonia. By this point there was considerable tree cover as the Great Western Woodland was met, which extended east west by over 100 k. In part of this was Newman Rocks, a flat topped granite outcrop with good views over the woodland. We could see a lake down below and on top were several pools.

We stopped the night at Fraser Range Station, the first property operating in the area.

The navigator had trouble with Balladonia and reckoned it was on the big straight, about 30k east of the actual place. Also Fraser Range was about 20k too soon.

Bight Cliffs

Head of Bight

Whales at Head of Bight

Accommodation on Nullarbor

The accommodation we used going west was at

Port Augusta

Ceduna

Mundrabilla

Fraser Range Station

Kalgoorlie

Going back east was

Southern Cross

Fraser Range Station

Mundrabilla

Ceduna

And after a detour to Eye Peninsula we stopped at Port Augusta again.

Here is our opinion of the accommodation we used in these places. It is also cross referenced on Trip Advisor or Google where you can also read what others have to say.

Southern Cross WA

Sandalwood Motor Lodge

Although it probably has been here for a while, the room was in good condition and clean. There was limited cooking facilities with a microwave and electric fry pan. There was no sink but a wash-up basin was supplied. Water had to obtained from the bathroom. There was no lounge nor would one have fitted in anyway, but there was a lounge chair, a small table and two ordinary chairs.

Port Augusta SA

Port Augusta Big4 Holiday Park

Several cabin options are available and we chose the ensuite cabin. It was in good order and clean but the bed was in the main room rather than in a separate room. Also being a small cabin meant there was no lounge which makes sitting not as comfortable.

The cabin was getting a bit old and was showing the wear.

Mundrabilla WA

Mundrabilla Roadhouse

We had an ensuite room which was fairly basic, but it was clear that the accommodation was gradually being improved. One of the fixtures that hopefully would be replaced was the bathroom sink which was not in good condition, although it was clean enough. The bed was comfortable.

As there was no cooking facilities we had the evening meal in the roadhouse. It had a pub type menu and we avoided meat dishes just in case.

Ceduna SA

Ceduna Tourist Park

We had a one bedroom cabin which had a made up queen bed with ample blankets. The cabin was clean and had a lounge and fully equipped kitchen. We stayed there before heading over the Nullarbor and also on the return trip, so it indicates we were happy with the place. They also stay open if aware that you will be late

Fraser Range 100k west of Balladonia WA

Fraser Range Station

Pleasant Accommodation on a Farming Property

The room we had was in the old shearers quarters and being fairly small rooms, there was no room for much more than the bed, which was large and comfortable. There were two large pillows and these could be used as back rests against the bedhead to read. The quarters were quaint though. We enjoyed the stay and used it again on the return Nullarbor drive.

The toilet and shower block was in another building and shared with other guests.

A communal kitchen was provided, but a roast was on offer for $25 a head and we opted for that. It was very tasty, although we both found the gravy and baked potatoes too salty for our taste. We also stayed on the return Nullarbor drive and the menu this time was Shepherds Pie, which was good, although still a bit salty.

Kalgoorlie WA

Discovery Holiday Parks Kalgoorlie

Overpriced and not well maintained

Very overpriced and cabin was showing wear, especially the bathroom. The shower bay floor, bathroom bench and sink and toilet looked fairly new, but fittings and tiles were still the original and were not in the best of condition. The ones at the bottom of the shower looked like someone had attempted to paint over a strip of mouldy grouting.